Cette envie d’ascension du Pic Lénine est née de ce projet un peu fou du challenge « Léopard des neiges » de gravir les cinq sommets de 7000 m de l’Asie Centrale. Et très vite, « Octobre Blanc », le film de Christophe Raylat avec Sylvain Tesson et Cédric Gras a donné un fil rouge culturel à ces différents voyages.
Mais, si le Pic Lénine est bien sur la liste, sa voie normale ne me fait pas du tout rêver. A la lecture du livre de Linda Cotino « Ici Elvira, vous m’entendez ? les 8 femmes du Pic Lénine », un autre projet d’ascension du Lénine est né, beaucoup plus intéressant. Surtout, rendre hommage à ce groupe de femmes alpinistes en projetant une traversée du Lénine par les Rochers Lipkin était particulièrement inspirant. Du point de vue de l’alpinisme, réaliser la traversée d’un sommet de 7000 m est une entreprise très engagée et d’une belle esthétique.
Durant l’été 2020, avec Cédric Gras nous avons voyagé un peu en Oberland en un temps d’ascensions et d’échanges. Son livre « Alpinistes de Staline » venait de sortir et la première étape du Léopard des neige était justement le Khan Tengri, un sommet important dans l’épopée des frères Abalakov.
« Mais, pour le Lénine, pourquoi n’irais-tu pas par le versant Sud, depuis le Tadjikistan, loin de la foule du camp de base classique ? En plus c’est la voie historique et le début de notre approche du Glacier Octobre », suggère Cédric.
Doucement, l’idée fait son chemin…
- Interpellé par K’ro & Chris, grands voyageurs des pays en Stan, sur ce projet du Léopard des neiges, nous avons passé une soirée à nous immerger dans les photos et les anecdotes de leur voyage avec Khronos (Un camion 4×4 et aussi le dieu du Temps).
- Enfin, avec Isa, nous nous sommes replongés dans « Octobre Blanc » et une dernière discussion avec Christophe m’a définitivement convaincu.
Notre ascension du Pic Lénine débutera au lac Karakul au Tadjikistan, pour un immense voyage en altitude.
Octobre 2020, la préparation commence…
Avec un premier contact avec Nicolay de l’agence Central Asian Travel !
« Dear Paulo,
Thank you for your email and request. We are happy to arrange a trip for you and for your clients and try to make your trip to Central Asia kindly unforgettable!
I have studied your site and your idea! This is a great idea, but there are several important points that make the program unrealizable.
To begin with, I want to give a little historical background. The fact is that such ascents were made during the period of the Great Soviet Empire. During that period, the Soviet state gave huge money for sports and demanded new great achievements. Accordingly, there were no difficulties with the use of helicopters, since for the athletes of that time, it was all free. Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan were part of a large country where there were no borders between the countries and crossing these borders did not cause any problems.
Unfortunately, since 1991 that big country has not been there. And we all are living in the days of capitalism)))
1. As far as I understand, you are planning to start your ascent from the side of Tajikistan and descend towards Kyrgyzstan. As you already understood, these are two independent states. Crossing the borders between these countries is possible only through international checkpoints. If you cross the border along a mountain path, it will be considered illegal crossing the border and in this case a prison term of 3 to 5 years is possible. I am writing in all seriousness!
Of course, since 1991, there have been ecological expeditions, when the entire program was coordinated with the leadership of the two states, but in this case, a serious justification for this expedition and an appeal by the authorities of your country to the authorities of our countries are needed. There are no other options.
2. You must understand that there is no infrastructure on the Tajik side. First, it will be necessary to conduct exploration of this route, because no expeditions have been carried out for a long time and there are no specialists in this area. For reconnaissance requires the use of a helicopter.
Also, the helicopter will be required in the future for the expedition itself, because the delivery of equipment and food will be required. For you to understand, one hour of helicopter use in Kyrgyzstan is 4.500 usd, in Tajikistan 5.500 usd.
In total, a minimum of 15-20 hours of helicopter use will be required.
3. Plus, for the organization of this expedition, it will be necessary to provide individual personal, such as a cook, guide, porter. Which will also be much more expensive than the expedition from Kyrgyzstan.
Based on the above, you understand that it is practically impossible to carry out this version of the ascent in modern conditions.
Therefore, I would like to propose to focus on climbing from the territory of Kyrgyzstan.
In particular, you can climb Lenin Peak through the Lipkin Rocks. This is also a very difficult and non-standard route, but it is quite realizable.
In case of additional questions and clarifications, please, contact me. I will be glad to reply!
Waiting for your reply!
Best regards,
Nikolay Serbin »
Et aussi ma réponse…
Hello Nicolai
First of all, thanks for your reply.
And no worry, I like very much what is unrealizable ! I am a stupid mountain guide who love adventure in high altitude.
1… The project is NOT to cross from Tadjikistan side to Kyrgyzstan with a traverse of Lenin Peak. I know that’s impossible !!!
2… I want just to start from Osh to take less time travelling to Karakol lake, with one night or two at your Base Camp of the North side, for better acclimatizing.
And then, cross the official border at Kyzil Art, as simple tourist to Karakol, and to the other side of the lake.
3… From Karakol Lake and the last place of Japhar, we know the way. We need just a small logistic (kitchen & local food) and of course mules to reach the base camp ( 2 day).
4… About helicopter.
It is NOT necessary to conduct exploration of this route. This will be a great game/challenge for us and all the team to re discover this original itinerary. No problem for me and for my clients.
I don’t want to use at all helicopter, but only in case of a rescue.
5… I know that there is no infrastructure on the Tajik side. And we will be alone.
6… If your a ready to do that with us, I have to prepare a little more my day by day planning. And I think to use (maybe) small sledges up & down the glacier to a advance base camp before the second pass, to make it easier.
We have to discuss how to organize that. With a cook, or not ? with some porters ?
Or if not…, we will do that together with all the group, we need just more time. For me, it’s what we do in Nepal but with Nepali high altitude porters.
I hope this sounds good for you, and that you are not too afraid about this project.
Best regards
Paulo-really shocked by this COVID Story